Sabrina Azadi

Fashion Writer and Columnist

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Princess Diana – The Last Night of Summer

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I was in Alexandria when I first saw photos of Princess Diana in her sky blue one-piece swimsuit and her St. Tropez tan, playfully embracing a hairy chested, billionaire by the name of Dodi Al Fayed.

Photographs of them were plastered on the front of all the newspapers in Egypt. We got a glimpse into their intimate moments on a mega-yacht somewhere in the South of France. Overnight she had become a make-believe bride and the Egyptians were proud that she had chosen to be with one of their own. As naive as I was 21 years ago, I knew it wouldn’t end well. There was too much glitz, Ritz and playboy-style antics for it to go anywhere.

On my return to London from Cairo I went through several weeks of non-stop idle partying and saying my farewells to my friends, colleagues, acquaintances and the transient crowd that frequented the same spots as I.

There was a feeling of sadness and panic as August was slipping away. I knew it was to be my last summer in London. In a few weeks I’d leave everything and everyone I knew behind and make my home across the ocean, on the other side of the world, in the United States of Everything.

It was the August of no return. The two golden Medusa heads on my Versace handbag one on each side of the strap were my silent guardians and watched as I slept most of the day and gallivanted from coffee-shop to restaurant to bar and nightclub, in that order, night after night.

August 31, 1997 was a balmy night, like any other in London. When my friends and I left Iceni, a plush nightclub in the heart of Mayfair, the cosmo-crowd were still throbbing inside. We left in a daze of cigarette smoke and perfume, high-heels and hairspray, laughing, intoxicated with the euphoria of another night drawing to a close.

Instead of going to Bar Italia with the rest of our gang, my friend Azita and I said our goodbyes to them. We a hailed a taxi and went to Azita’s house in Chelsea. I’d promised I’d stay at her place for night or two. Who knew when we’d be able to hang out like this again.

We lowered our voices as we entered her bottom flat quietly so as not to wake-up her parents upstairs. Like children we reenacted our earlier dance moves and giggled as we made our way to her bedroom. There we would rehash the night’s main themes during our extensive make-up removal ceremony.

Just as I soaked a cotton ball in eyemake-up remover and wiped off what looked like impenetrable soot from one eye. We heard a knock at the door. It was Azita’s father. We thought it’s because of all the noise we’d made. Instead he opened the door and stood in the doorway, unfazed about what time we’d got back or the noise we were making. And said “They killed her.”

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Getting Personal with Victoria Christian

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The Scent of Royalty 

Just as the kitchen is the heart of a home, the beauty department is at the heart of a department store. And that’s where the two worlds of Clive Christian collide.  Known for creating bespoke interiors and furniture, the British designer was one of the first to bring the crystal chandelier into the kitchen. So it’s no surprise that his namesake perfume company is synonymous with using the finest, exotic ingredients to create exceptional perfumes, showcased in the most luxurious bottles and flacons.

Victoria Christian daughter of Clive Christian holding the Nº1 perfume case at Neiman Marcus, Fashion Island. Nº1 is known as “the most expensive perfume in the world.” Nº1 perfume spray for women by Clive Christian, 1.6oz, $865 available at Neiman Marcus. Photo by Sabrina Azadi. 

I was first introduced to the Clive Christian fragrances, by his daughter Victoria Christian many years ago. To this day the process, reminds me of my olfactory innocence. The fragrances weren’t like anything else I had inhaled or anything else on the market. Unlike the fad fragrances that are fashionable for a season, there is a longevity to these fragrances, and that’s because you have to love them to wear them. You’ll never just “make do” with a Clive Christian fragrance because like a great love, they’re to be admired, pursued and cherished.  

If you’re looking for instant gratification these fragrances are not for you. As with all absolute perfumes, wearing them means embarking on a journey, one without a compass (or a GPS) not knowing where the final destination will be. It’s best to spritz the fragrance on your skin without rubbing it, so as to not bruise it, and then allow it to settle. The next step is to do nothing. You have to be patient, and give it time to develop. One spritz or a drop is all you need and depending on your body chemistry and your environment, each layer that’s unveiled will hold a language of its own, that’s unique, to you. Unlike many fragrances on the market, these fragrances are not going to reveal themselves to you immediately, like a fine wine that’s sipped slowly, enjoy them sparingly. They’re also worth the wait, because once you’ve discovered your match, it’s unlikely, you’ll stray. It’s also rare to find anyone else wearing them, which is a novelty I like, and if you do, it feels like a secret shared, between friends and connoisseurs.

The Crown Perfumery, first established in 1872,  has a rich history, which is why it appealed to Clive Christian when he decided to purchase and revive it in 1999. Queen Victoria had given her seal of approval to the company. And now, another Victoria, the daughter of Clive Christian, along with her father at its helm, are taking it forward, into a new era.

My interview with Victoria Christian

Victoria Christian was recently at Neiman Marcus, Fashion Island, where I
had the chance to sit down and chat with her about the past, present
and future of this brand that holds the coveted title of being “the most
expensive perfume in the world.” I also had the opportunity to get a
spritz of the soon to be launched Neiman Marcus exclusive, a limited
edition; 1872 with a twist of Mandarin, which is sublime.

SA: We met almost 10 years ago at the Neiman Marcus in Miami, where you
introduced the Clive Christian perfume collection to me and I had the pleasure of interviewing you, over coffee. We meet now at NM Fashion Island, how has your luxury brand evolved
over the last 10 years?
VC: How time flies! And how lovely to be meeting after so
many years on a different Coast and yet still celebrating this historic
perfume house! What a testament to the quality and timelessness of the
perfumes that they are still enjoyed by so many across the country!
Since we met my father Clive has released six new perfumes
– three pairs – from his Private Collection. ‘C’, ‘L’ and ‘V’ perfumes
all wear the same amber color glass bottle which was the color of the
private commission perfumes in the archives of the Crown Perfumery and
the Collection has a distinct personal feel. The more masculine versions
of the pairs all carry a precious Oud wood at their base which brings
a hallmark smokey, woody, confident complexity to the perfumes and the
more feminine versions of the collection are a celebration of some of the
most prized notes from the Victorian era – ‘C’ has an operatic note of
Tuberose which was the Victorian symbol for voluptuous, forbidden pleasures
and yet has a quiet, sensual finish and the ‘L’ has the unusual Davana, reminiscent of green, lush rain forest leaves and has a feeling
to me similar to when sunbeams land on your face it is so bright and delightful! 

A display of some of the Clive Christian perfume collection, for men and women.

SA: What’s the different aspects of working with your father, Clive Christian,
and being the only sibling in the business?
VC: I am the eldest of three girls and have always had a strong
connection with my father, Clive. We share the same humor which is always
a great foundation for a relationship of course! I feel very lucky to have
been raised by a gentleman who has a deep appreciation for life – I have
learned to take time to enjoy a sunrise and a sunset, and perhaps most
importantly to listen to my heart and to make decisions based on integrity
and a feeling of love rather than a monetary motivation. My father has
taught me this and I believe it is evident in his work, his designs and
his creations. I feel very fortunate to represent my family business and to have the opportunity
to work alongside a great British designer who has been recognized by Queen
Elizabeth II for his contribution to British luxury. 

The Clive Christian coat of arms awarded to him in 1999 by The Royal College of Arms. He was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 2012.

SA: Tell me about your first fragrance memory?
VC: My father has always kept beautiful rose gardens in England
and the scent of natural English roses after the rain has such a delicate
captivation – a little like you might imagine Turkish delight. I was and
still am transfixed by this perfume and we harness rose in its absolute
form at the heart of many of our perfumes – in particular the 1872 for women which carries the beautiful May Rose at the heart and requires 170
of those roses for every single drop. 

The 1872 perfume spray for women a floral, fruity, citrus fragrance perfect for summer days and nights. (100ml $495). 1872 is the year The Crown Perfumery was established.

SA: Is it true that the Clive Christian perfume is the most expensive perfume
in the world? And if so why?
VC: Yes – when Clive created The No.1 Perfumes it was his
wish to design a pair of perfumes that were simply the best – the No.1. He wanted a perfume that harnessed the rarest and most precious
natural ingredients in their purest form – the absolute – the notes that
most fragrances do not use due to their high cost and low yield. Rare Indian
Sandalwood aged from 30-50 years and Madagascan Vanilla which takes six
months to crystallize – he was not expecting for the perfumes to become
the most expensive in the world – however when The Guinness Book of World
Records announced this we decided to embrace it and to use this recognition
to help us to reignite the conversation of what it takes to create a true
luxury perfume and all the stories of what goes in to creating each complex
drop. 

Victoria Christian hosts a private reception at NM Fashion Island.

SA: The perfume house has a long history, heritage and even a royal crown,
tell me about that and how it has influenced your brand.
VC: Queen Victoria granted the image of her crown to this
perfumery in 1872 and it had held a very special place in her Royal court
and within her marriage to her husband Prince Albert. They had perfumes
commissioned for various special occasions in their life and these perfumes
were greeted as a matched, complementing pair – so they were united, connected
invisibly through their perfumes. Clive Christian has maintained this tradition
and all the perfumes in our collections are presented as matched pairs
– however today, in this modern world our boundaries are so different –
nowadays I find our clients are connoisseurs and many wear the pairs together
– for example a spritz of No.1 for women and spritz of No.1 for men – it
brings a third element to the perfumes – rather like two wings of a butterfly. 

A sealed original bottle of lavender salts from The Crown Perfumery from 1800’s which has inspired the current perfume bottles. The Crown Perfumery was the perfume available on the first class cabins of the Titanic.

SA: With the thousand of perfumes available, tell me about the people who
choose to wear your fragrances and what makes them want to wear the very
British, Clive Christian brand?
VC: It’s true that every year over 1000 different fragrances
are launched and sadly it is true that over 90% of these fragrances have
been discontinued within two years of their launch. Each perfume launch
within the Clive Christian Perfume Collections is considered and curated
by Clive so that they will not date and will remain a timeless addition
to your perfume wardrobe. I have been wearing X for Women paired with X
for Men for almost 15 years and each time I am complimented on my perfume
– which invariably brings a spring to my step! And it does help that with
every drop you are connected to a piece of great history from a perfume
house that was so adored by our Queen Victoria that she granted the image
of her crown! Nothing better than feeling like Royalty! 

Victoria uses a fan to introduce each fragrance as was the custom in Victorian England.

SA: You’re surrounded by perfume in your professional life, but what fragrance
do you like to wear when you’re not at work? 
VC: To quote Confucius, “make your passion your profession
and you will never work a day in your life” – I do not really consider
what I do to be work – I love perfumes and it is an honor to represent
this historic perfume house – my perfume wardrobe is fully stocked with
the Clive Christian Perfumes and they are my invisible accessory for every
day of my life and every occasion – on my wedding day in 2014 I wore No.1
for Women and my husband wore No.1 for Men (1+1=3!) and now this perfume
holds a very special memory of the most wonderful day of my life! 

Victoria talks to me about the soon to be launched limited edition 1872 with a twist of Mandarin and 1872 with a twist of Vetiver.

SA: What’s next for your perfume collection and the Clive Christian brand
and what are you telling us here at Neiman Marcus Fashion Island?
VC: I am very excited to share a preview of our newest launch
which will be exclusive to Neiman Marcus – the 1872 Limited Edition with
a Twist! This new launch takes the heart of the classic and well loved
citrus perfume pair 1872 and adds a new dimension to their invigorating
complexity – the 1872 with a Twist of Mandarin adds a burst of joyful Mandarin
for a bright body and the 1872 with a Twist of Vetiver brings a clean,
fresh finish and a subtle glow. Each bottle is individually hand numbered
1/1000 and signed by Clive. They are incredibly vibrant and perfectly capture
the feeling of Californian sunshine! 

Victoria and I after the presentation. Also seen here is a bottle of the Nº1 perfume. Clive Christian was also commissioned to create a unique presentation of a matched pair of the Nº1 perfumes, a his and hers for Prince William and Katherine (Duchess of Cambridge) for their wedding. Their perfume bottles were hand-cut crystal with a brilliant-cut diamond solitaire embedded in them, and their initials etched in gold. A gift fit for royalty.
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Getting Personal with Nancy Gonzalez

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If you’ve ever seen one of Lucio Fontana’s white slash canvases up close, you’ll know that it has this ability to draw you in. With clinical like precision the delicate incisions are simple yet complete. Luxury handbag designer, Nancy Gonzalez has something in common with her favorite artist. Her medium however, is exotic leather, dyed in an array of vibrant hues and like Fontana’s Tagli, her leather is cut perfectly to a create handbags that women love to carry and collect. I recently had a chance to ask her some questions:
Handbag designer Nancy Gonzalez and her collection of fine leather handbags. (Photo: www.nancygonzalez.com)
Crocodile skin Gotham Clutch in fuchsia by Nancy Gonzalez, $1750 (available at Neiman Marcus)

 

Tom Ford Lipstick in Scarlet Rouge $52 (www.neimanarcus.com), Smythson notebook $60 (www.symthson.com) scenic view of Rajasthan (www.rajasthantourism.gov.in), Lucio Fontana’s white slashes (www.sothebys.com).


What are some of the items I would find inside your handbag? 

Three different currencies in cash since I am always traveling, my Tom Ford sunglasses, two iPhones (one for Colombia and one for the U.S.), a Smythson notebook that says “Smile” on the outside for sketches and notes and a Tom Ford lipstick in Scarlet Rouge.

What handbag do you like to carry on a daily basis? 
For everyday I love wearing my convertible tote in Kelly green as it fits my entire life. I always keep a Gotham clutch in a surprising neutral such as electric blue or fuchsia packed (I use it as a wallet), in case I need to go out. That way I am ready for any kind of event.
You’re known for your use of exotic skins and bright colors, what’s your favorite exotic skin and color combination right now? 
My favorite precious skin is crocodile, and my favorite bag from this season is the double chain shoulder in black crocodile, with white crocodile poppy flowers on the flap with a hint of bordeaux in the bud of the flower. 
Since fashion is inspired so much from artists can you tell me about your favorite artist? 
Lucio Fontana’s, white slash paintings. I need visual silence in the art I collect.
What are we going to see next season from you? 
For Resort 2016 you will see the story of Rajasthan. This is by far the most exuberant collection I have ever created. From jewelry adornment made entirely out of crocodile, to horse hair woven with real silver, to crocodile flowers, this collection is truly a feast for the eyes.
Where do you get your inspirations from and do you feel something specific inspires you each season? 

In Colombia, we have blue skies, three hundred and sixty-five days a year, the largest number of bird species in the world, and an array of greens that is incredible. Even after all these years, nature is still my best collaborator and life is my source of inspiration.

Thank you!

Nancy Gonzalez handbags are available at Neiman Marcus, Fashion Island.

 

Getting Personal With Fetneh Blake

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I’ll give you a visual of what happens to me, when I’m driving from my home in Irvine to Laguna Beach. I’ll take, what I call the scenic route on PCH, past my dream house, which I’ve named Rebecca (after the novel) that’s perched high up on a cliff, overlooking Crystal Cove, past the blooming bougainvilleas, and a few random stores until I approach the Fetneh Blake boutique on my right. Much to the dismay of other drivers, I purposely slow down every time. What I see on those two mannequins will be a blueprint for what’s new, fresh and fashion forward. Even though I’m in sunny California, that single window display gives me a glimpse of what’s on the cutting edge of fashion in New York, Paris or Tokyo.

If you’re on a fashion quest for something different, you”ll find it there. Each item she carries in her store has been carefully curated by Fetneh herself and has its own story. What you won’t find here are the usual suspects (you know I mean), familiar brands rotating in all the hip boutiques around town. It’s unlikely that you’ve even heard of some of her brands, since she’s usually the only store in OC carrying them. She’s at New York Fashion Week and attends the shows in Paris, so if you pick up something from her boutique, you can rest assured that no-one will know who it’s by, let alone be wearing it! What Fetneh sells above all, is her own sense of style, her unique edgy brand of it, and if you’re in need of help, she knows how to gently nudge you in the right direction. She’s been in business for the last 14 years, in the same spot on PCH. I recently sat down on a warm afternoon for an informal chat with her.

Fetneh wearing a SU kaftan by Parisian based brand with roots in Turkey. (SU means water in Turkish).
Eclectic sheer shirt and stretch pants by Japanese brand If Six Was Nine (the brand is named after a Jimi Hendrix song)

 

Who doesn’t need a gold clutch? I fell in love this oversize gold painted clutch by Simona Tagliaferri $720

SA: How has your vision for your store evolved over the
years?

FB: The vision changes but the bottom line, which is the passion that drives you to find something fantastic, well-made and well-priced, stays the same.

SA: Did you know you were going to create a brand by placing your name on your boutique?

FB: I never really thought about it. My ex-husband always encouraged me to have my name on it, and to create a brand. It has created a certain expectation, one of high quality and high fashion from my customers.

SA: Are you under any pressure to conform to the OC sense of fashion?

FB: (She laughs) My brand is both a blessing and a curse. Some people love it and some people don’t understand it.

SA: Who is a typical Fetneh Blake customer?

FB: Anyone in their 20s to 80s. Women usually come here to find something different. They usually appreciate style and want a whole look. We don’t cater to any particular shape or size meaning I don’t just want to sell clothes to skinny people.

SA: What’s your favorite item of clothing?

FB: STROM jeans which I am wearing right now, they’re slim boyfriend jeans but they’re not too baggy. They have the perfect wash and color. I usually have to re-order them every time I get them in.

SA: I would love to take a peek inside your closet. What’s your closet like at home?

FB: I have my favorites that I go to every time. I have a few really good dresses and for casual wear I have several leather jackets. But I go through my closet and clean it out every six months or so.

SA: What color do you love wearing?

FB: Usually black, but now I am also into gold and deep deep reds.

SA: Do you cook?

FB: I love cooking. I cook healthy dishes and Persian food. I like putting things together and I can’t work from a cook-book!

SA: What kind of music do you listen to?

FB: I live with music. I listen to jazz most of the time.

SA: What is your ideal romantic date?

FB: I would say a nice lunch to start with.

SA: Do you have any favorite artists?

FB: I love Ed Moses, I own two paintings from him. I also love Peter Alexander and Jimmy Gleeson. Each painting means something to me on a personal level since I live with them.

SA: What’s your beauty secret?

FB: I try everything. I love creams, moisturizers and serums. But sleep is the most important thing.

SA: What do you do to relax?

FB: I pray every morning and every night.

SA: Tell me about your Persian background?

FB: I would credit my mother for passing on her love of beautiful clothes to me. Sometimes she would make clothes for me to wear. Iran has a beautiful place in my heart and is a lovely memory, but my life and my home is here.

SA: What do you love shopping for?

FB: I love shopping, so I will shop everywhere. But most of the time I buy make-up. A lipstick is the easiest way to change your look. Right now in my make-up bag I have the same lipstick shade (dark red) in six or seven different brands. I guess, I am a bit obsessed with that color right now.

SA: What are some of the fashion lines you’re carrying?

FB: If Six Was Nine by Japanese husband and wife, LBG is by them too, but it’s a more casual line. There’s also Duuya, an LA artist (originally from Mongolia) she creates hand painted silk clothing with different washes. French high-end resort wear SU’s range of kaftans and Simona Tagliaferri an Italian designer who works out of Paris.

SA: What’s next for you? Ever thought of having your own fashion line?

FB: Maybe, I’ve thought about it. I love vests so, maybe a line of vest, that are simple and lightweight. I also love easy silk tops. Let’s see.

Fetneh Blake
427 N. Coast Hwy.
Laguna Beach, CA
www.FetnehBlake.com

 

 

 

 

 

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It's Hot at Style Week OC

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Orange with Pink is the new black.

You know how Fashion Island is 10 degrees cooler than everywhere else in OC? I’ve now learned that’s not always the case. The Art of Fashion which was recently hosted by Neiman Marcus in conjunction with Style Week OC would have been a great opportunity to get excited about the Fall trends, if it wasn’t for the heat. 

Although the NM magazines placed on each seat were too heavy to be used as fans, I did spot a few resourceful people rip pages out, and in a matter of seconds, create their own, custom, folded origami fans. I discovered, however, that the insert (made of card stock) was far more effective. And so did the lady that sat next to me. Seeing her level of discomfort I advised her to do the same. She then looked at me, like I had just handed her, an electric fan. 

The fashion was fabulous. I really mean it. It was fabulous and wearable but I just couldn’t get excited about fur, winter coats or Fall colors while my bra melted against my skin and sweat dripped down my forehead. It wasn’t a pretty sight.

And then, the show reached a climax when a model’s shoe accidentally slipped off. What do you think she did? What would anyone do in 90 degree heat? She kicked the other heel off too and walked down the catwalk with her bare feet, holding her spiked two-tone, Louboutins in her hand,  where they belonged. Who could blame her? It made my day. And just then, the DJ played “Papaoutai” a song by my favorite Belgian artist Stromae and at that moment, I realized that all is well with the world, and I was exactly where I was supposed to be. I now invite you, to enjoy some of my favorite looks from the show and listen to the sounds of Stromae, in the comfort of your cool, fully air-conditioned homes.

Enjoy!
 

Living the glam life.

Neutrals and flats. OK, they’re flats to me.

It’s all about the heels. Fuchsia, Playboy bunny, tartan and pearl.

Contrast your clutch.

Hot in boots. No pun intended.
Who doesn’t like some sparkle and fringe?

Electric blue was a hit. And I saved the best for last.

It’s Over, COS is Here

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I know it’s the primary job of a fashion writer to share,
but this time I’m sorry to say, I am doing it unwillingly. My best-kept fashion
secret, my “yet to be undiscovered by all” source of style and my sole reason
for traveling to Europe, is now opening here, right in my backyard at, South Coast
Plaza.

COS (Collection Of Style) is going to open at South Coast
Plaza. That’s it, I’ve written it down and now I feel my stomach churn. It was
supposed to be my little secret, and now my last bastion of style is here for
everyone else to enjoy too. Right next to its sister store H&M.

Last year it opened its first US store in our neighboring
Los Angeles, but somehow, I could handle that. The Beverly Drive store didn’t
launch with a big bang and much to my relief, didn’t receive many accolades,

My only consolation is that its name, COS (not so pretty in
Farsi) will hopefully be off putting to my Persian friends. I’m also hoping so
will its, androgynous, minimalist, over sized silhouettes (which I am obsessed
with). Everything, which I adore in my closet, is by COS, and so far I was the
only one that owned it.  That’s all about
to change.

I’ve got my fingers crossed and I’m praying that its way too
simple fashion will be a major disappointment to all the the label obsessed OC fashionistas, and that hopefully
it will close shop in a few months and go back to far-far away Sweden and NOT
follow in the footsteps of ABBA and IKEA.

AMEN.

COSSTORES.COM